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Exploring Peel Possibilities

June 12, 2019 Contact AuthorBrian Goodwin, Éminence

As the esthetics industry evolves, so does our understanding of various acid combinations to treat the most problematic skin conditions plaguing our clients. Every day, we are discovering new acids, formulations and tricks to push the results further in the treatment room. After all, many of our customers expect a miracle after just one treatment. Even though this constant discovery is a positive commodity, it can also prove difficult as an esthetician to stay up to date with all the latest information and understand which acids work best in combination for each skin condition. Let’s explore some studied combinations of acids in peels to increase their efficacy, as well as some novel, new acids in skin care that can provide the most effective and safe treatments for all our clients.


Peels offer fantastic ways of treating hyperpig­mentation in the treatment room. The tricky part about using a peel to treat hyperpig­mentation is that the same peel you’re using to lift, lighten and suppress pigment in one client might prove problematic for another. For example, many chemical peels hold the risk of causing more hyperpig­mentation for Fitzpatrick 4+ skin tones due to the rebound inflammatory effect aggressive acids can create. Deeper skin tones possess more melanin and have more reactive melanocytes, which means that aggressive acids can create a protective melanin reaction in the skin, potentially causing post-inflammatory hyperpig­mentation. On the opposite end of the spectrum, if you destroy too much pigment unintent­ionally with a peel, you may cause hypopigm­entation or a complete loss of pigment in areas of the skin, which is often untreatable.


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